Bajawa
Ngada highland culture, megalithic villages and hot springs. The nearest town, and the shortest road in.
Bena, near Bajawa. Photo: Serenade / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0.
On the coast
Against Bajawa, Ende, Maumere and Labuan Bajo — not as rivals, but as places on the same overland route.
Riung is the only stop on the Trans-Flores route with direct access to a marine park, which is what distinguishes it from the cultural and volcanic stops either side of it.
The route
Most overland travellers do three of these. Riung is the one people skip and regret.
Ngada highland culture, megalithic villages and hot springs. The nearest town, and the shortest road in.
Bena, near Bajawa. Photo: Serenade / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0.
The base for Kelimutu. Pairs naturally with Riung — one is water, the other is volcano.
Photo: Bagus Pinandoyo Basuki / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0.
East-coast diving with a longer history, and a much longer drive from Riung.
Photo: Jakub Hałun / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 4.0.
The marine hub: flights, dive shops, every boat you could want, and the crowds that come with them.
Photo: Jakub Hałun / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 4.0.
Fitting it in
The Trans-Flores route runs Labuan Bajo–Ruteng–Bajawa–Ende–Maumere. Riung is north off that line, roughly three hours from Bajawa.
Two nights buys you the detour and the boat day. That is a small price against how different it is from everything either side.
Riung boats are arranged locally, at the pier. For the Komodo leg or a full Flores itinerary, the reservations desk answers on WhatsApp.